Even with both Rolex and TAG Heuer’s very different approaches to watchmaking, there are some similarities to be appreciated between to the two brands. Both Rolex and TAG Heuer have prioritized work that reached beyond the watch industry. TAG Heuer’s primary focus has been on the automobile industry, creating iconic models like the Carrera and the Monaco – the latter of which was worn by Steve McQueen in the making of the film Le Mans. Rolex also relies on ambassadors and influential world leaders to stylize its wristwatches, like Tiger Woods, James Cameron and Roger Federer. Here’s a comparison guide highlighting some of the most popular collections by each brand, along with a comparative price guide.
Rolex was founded in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis in London. In 1926 the company launched its first-ever waterproof and dustproof watch made from the famous Oyster case. The first self-winding automatic mechanism with a perpetual rotor was created in 1931, followed by the Datejust model in 1945 and the iconic Submariner in 1953. Since then Rolex has been specializing in the development of world-leading, high-quality mechanical wristwatches, cementing a name for itself within the luxury watch industry.
When comparing the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 to the Rolex Submariner ref. 124060, both are esteemed dive watches with distinctive features tailored to enthusiasts who appreciate both functionality and style. Each has undergone meticulous evolution to cater to modern demands without sacrificing their iconic status.
The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 stands out with its option for a date or a GMT complication, appealing to those needing a watch for global travel. Its 42mm steel case, downsized from 43mm, offers a contemporary, wearable profile with a thickness of 12mm for the date model and 13.45mm for the GMT version, ensuring a substantial yet comfortable fit on the wrist. The Aquaracer features a TH31 automatic movement, certified by COSC for precision, with a robust 80-hour power reserve and 300 meters of water resistance, making it both a practical and durable choice for diverse environments. Its aesthetic versatility is evident in its available dial colors (black, blue, and green) and the choice between a rubber strap or a bracelet, with pricing ranging from $3,600 to $4,200 depending on the model and strap option.
On the other hand, the Rolex Submariner ref. 124060 introduces a new era for the model with subtle yet impactful changes. It features a slightly larger 41mm case, refined by slimming the lugs for a closer homage to vintage Submariner models. This iteration is powered by the new Caliber 3230, which boasts a 70-hour power reserve and incorporates Rolex’s Chronergy escapement for enhanced efficiency and reliability. The watch maintains the classic Submariner water resistance of 300 meters and is distinguished by a black lacquer dial with luminous markers for clarity under any conditions. The Rolex Submariner is positioned at a higher price point, starting at $8,100, reflecting its status and the technological advancements it embodies.
Both watches excel in their domains; the Aquaracer offers a sportier and slightly more accessible entry with diverse functionalities like GMT and solar options, while the Submariner focuses on refining its legacy features to enhance the wearing experience and performance without dramatically altering its fundamental design ethos. For potential buyers, the choice between the two might come down to brand preference, specific functional needs, and budget considerations.
Feature | TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 | Rolex Submariner ref. 124060 |
---|---|---|
Diameter | 42mm | 41mm |
Case Material | Steel | Oystersteel |
Dial Colors Available | Black, blue, green | Black lacquer |
Movement | Caliber TH31-00 (date), TH31-03 (GMT) | Caliber 3230 |
Power Reserve | 80 hours | 70 hours |
Water Resistance | 300 meters | 300 meters (1,000 feet) |
Lug-to-lug | 48mm | Not specified, but similar range |
Thickness | 12mm (date), 13.45mm (GMT) | Not directly specified, similar range |
Strap/Bracelet Options | Rubber strap or steel bracelet | Oyster bracelet with Glidelock system |
Luminosity | Super-LumiNova on hands and indexes | Lume on hour markers, hands, bezel |
Complications | Date or GMT (depending on model) | Hours, minutes, seconds |
Chronometer Certification | Yes, COSC | Superlative Chronometer Certified |
Bezel | Unidirectional rotating ceramic | Unidirectional rotating Cerachrom |
Price Range | $3,600 - $4,200 depending on model and strap | $8,100 |
Special Features | Tool-less micro-adjust on bracelet, COSC-certified | Chronergy escapement, hacking seconds |
In the realm of luxury chronographs, the TAG Heuer Carrera "Glassbox" and the Rolex Daytona each stand as a testament to their brands' legacies and dedication to innovation in 2023. The TAG Heuer Carrera, celebrating its 60th anniversary, introduces a reimagined design with a 39mm case and a new curvature, dubbed the "Glassbox," which features a domed crystal reminiscent of 1970s hesalite designs. This model is powered by the advanced TH20-00 caliber, which includes bidirectional winding and boasts an 80-hour power reserve. Available in steely blue and reverse-panda black, the Carrera blends vintage aesthetics with modern flair, featuring minimalist subdials and a date display, with prices starting at $6,450.
On the other hand, the Rolex Daytona, marking its own 60th anniversary, presents significant updates with over 30 models including a notable platinum version with a sapphire caseback, showcasing the new caliber 4131. This movement introduces Rolex’s Chronergy escapement and an enhanced power reserve of 72 hours. The Daytona retains its iconic 40mm sizing but offers a refined dial and a slightly adjusted bezel that aligns more with vintage styles, particularly mimicking the 1965 model with a black Plexiglas bezel. Rolex emphasizes its historical roots while enhancing the watch's technical prowess, making the Daytona not just a symbol of luxury but also a piece of horological evolution, with the steel model priced at $15,100.
Both chronographs exhibit their brand’s flair for blending heritage with modern advancements, offering collectors and enthusiasts new reasons to admire these iconic timepieces. While the Carrera focuses on a blend of vintage charm with contemporary mechanics, the Daytona enhances functionality and retains its status as a highly sought-after watch in the luxury market, making both watches compelling choices in their own unique ways.
Feature | TAG Heuer Carrera "Glassbox" | Rolex Daytona |
---|---|---|
Anniversary Year | 60th | 60th |
Case Diameter | 39mm | 40mm |
Case Material | Steel | Oystersteel, Platinum |
Dial Colors | Black or Blue | Black or White |
Crystal Type | Domed "Glassbox" | Sapphire (platinum model with display caseback) |
Movement | Calibre TH20-00 Automatic | Caliber 4131 |
Power Reserve | 80 hours | 72 hours |
Water Resistance | 100 meters | 100 meters |
Strap/Bracelet | Black or blue calfskin | Oyster bracelet with Glidelock extension system |
Price | $6,450 | $15,100 (steel model) |
Release Date | April 2023 | Starting September 2023 (precious metals), October 2023 (steel) |
Special Features | Revamped design for 60th anniversary with vintage influences | Introduction of a new movement with technological enhancements and a slight redesign |
Water resistance, unmatched durability, and shock resistance are core values of the Carrera watch by TAG Heuer. Their clean attractive dials have made them an instant hit with sporty individuals as well as motorsport lovers. The dashboard-inspired dial of a Carrera watch is adorned with chronograph dials at 12, 6 and 9 o’clock, along with a tachymeter bezel that can be used in conjunction with the chronograph feature to measure speed based on travel time or distance based on speed.
Reference: CBN2A1B.BA0643
Case/Dial: 44mm Steel, Black
100 m
Movement: Calibre Heuer 02, Self-winding
Functions: Date Chronograph, 80h power reserve
Strap: Steel
Style: Racing
TAG Heuer produce incredibly affordable sporty wristwatches compared to Rolex watches, including the famous Formula 1 models. They boast a classic aesthetic combined with great functionality. They also perform well for their price point. The Caliber 16 powering some of the Formula 1 watches provides a 42-hour power reserve courtesy of 28,800 vibrations per hour. If you’re looking for a sporty timepiece that can also suffice as a dressier watch for formal occasions – the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is for you.
Reference: CAZ1014.BA0842
Case/Dial: 43mm Stainless Steel, Blue
200 meters / 660 feet
Movement: Quartz
Functions: Date, Chronograph
Strap: Stainless Steel
Style: Racing
Compared with the Rolex Submariner, models like the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Automatic 500m model ref: wak2180.ft6027 and the Aquaracer 500m Calibre 72 model ref: cak211a.ft8019 win hands down for water resistance. Aquaracer models, however, are not as collectable or as investible as the Submariner. Aquaracer watches feature a helium escape valve in some models and the collections offers a larger variety of designs compared to the Submariner range. They make for sporty, rugged tools that can be a good option for wearing day-to-day as well as for a spot of scuba diving whilst on vacation.
Reference: WBD2111.BA0928
Case/Dial: 41mm Stainless Steel, White
30 bar (300 metres / 1000 feet)
Movement: Calibre 5 Automatic, Self-winding
Functions: Date, Calendar, 38h power reserve
Strap: Stainless Steel
Style: Sporty
The Rolex Submariner was created before the Aquaracer. It launched in 1953, taking full advantage of Rolex’s Oyster case with a monobloc steel centre and a screw-down crown. The Oyster was the first waterproof and dustproof watch. Today Submariner watches are priced mid-range in the Rolex catalog, featuring Triplock (triple waterproofness technology) built into their crowns and a Cerachrom unidirectional rotating bezels that not only protect the colour of their ceramic inlay from fading, but the structure of the bezel ensures remaining dive time can only be reduced and never extended (an innovative safety tool for diving enthusiasts).
Reference: 116613LB
Case/Dial: 40mm Oyster steel, Blue
30 bar (300 metres / 1000 feet)
Movement: Rolex 3135 , Self-winding
Functions: Date, Calendar, 48h power reserve
Strap: Oyster steel
Style: Elegant
The simple three-handed dial layout of the Rolex Datejust looks similar in aesthetics to some of the classic designs of the TAG Heuer Carrera line. The Datejust was the first mechanical wristwatch to feature a date aperture and is characterized by a cyclops lens. The materials used for the Rolex Datejust are much more sophisticated than the Carrera models, however. The collection is home to a vast array of different coloured dials, cases crafted from gold, steel or a mix of both, and case sizes of 26, 31, 36 and 41mm.
Reference: 126234
Case/Dial: 36mm White Rolesor - combination of Oystersteel and 18 ct white gold, Black
100 metres / 330 feet
Movement: Rolex 3235, Self-winding
Functions: Date, Calendar, 70h power reserve
Strap: Oystersteel
Style: Classic
Like the sporty TAG Heuer Formula 1 and Carrera collections, the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona range boasts racing-inspired elements. The design of the Daytona watch has become one of the most highly collectable watches on the market, especially those from the Paul Newman line. The original Paul Newman Daytona watch, worn by the actor himself, sold for 17.75 million USD in 2016 at Phillips Auction House in New York. Other Daytona models will allow you to measure elapsed time on a display that borrows from Rolex’s rich heritage in the motorsport industry – another connection shared by TAG Heuer . Models like the Daytona ref: 116518LN can also measure speeds up to 400 units per hour, displayed in kilometres or miles.
Reference: 116519LN
Case/Dial: 39mm 18 ct white gold, Steel and black
100 metres / 330 feet
Movement: Rolex 4130, Self-winding
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds., 55h power reserve
Strap: Black rubber strap
Style: Chronograph
The price difference between the TAG Heuer Aquaracer and the Rolex Submariner probably highlights the drastic difference between the two brands the most accurately. The price of the Aquaracer sits at around 2-3000 dollars, whereas the Submariner costs around 8-900 dollars. Top-end Rolex watches can set you back around $30,000 with models like the Day-Date and the Daytona. The most expensive TAG Heuer model is the Monaco, distinguishable by its square case. These wristwatches can sell for around $4,500.
Rolex is the #1 most recognised watch brand in the world whereas TAG Heuer is the 12th most recognised brand. This may not seem like such a large gap, but Rolex’s ranking within the watch industry has led to a huge fan base. The Rolex name adds tremendous value to a watch. Whilst most watches depreciate in value, some are known to hold their value, especially in the case of a Rolex watch. There are few iconic watches in the word that will sell on for as close to retail value as a Rolex. TAG Heuer however, has firmly cemented its name in industries synonymous with their company values. Having created partnerships with sporting models that are globally supported, the TAG Heuer name will always be associated with motorsport fans and sporty individuals.