Designed by Gerald Genta in 1976, the Nautilus was Patek Philippe’s first sports watch model. The full stainless steel watch featured a porthole-shaped case water-resistant to 120m, a rounded octagonal bezel, an integrated steel bracelet, and a simple time and date blue-to-black gradient dial. The Nautilus was dramatically different from the classically styled gold watches and high-end complications Patek Philippe was renowned for.

The Patek Philippe Nautilus has since grown to become the hottest luxury watch in today’s market—unobtainable at boutiques worldwide and trading for well over retail price in the secondary market. Over the last four decades, Patek has expanded the Nautilus collection to include several models where some are more sought-after than others. Discover what they are with our guide to popular Patek Philippe Nautilus watches.

Along with time and date Nautilus watches, Patek also makes more complicated editions. Take for example the Nautilus ref. 5712, which was also released in 2006. In addition to the standard hour and minute hands, this particular model also includes a running seconds subdial, a date display, a moonphase aperture, and a power reserve indicator on the dial. Similar to the ref. 5711, the Nautilus 5712 also has a 40mm case and a sapphire exhibition caseback.

While the stainless steel Nautilus 5712/1A includes a steel bracelet and blue dial, the rose gold 5712R is fitted with a brown leather strap and brown dial and the white gold 5712G has a black leather strap and gray dial. The popularity of the Nautilus Moonphase 5712 has risen quite significantly over the last few years, attracting the attention of celebrities and collectors alike.

In 2010, Patek Philippe unveiled the Nautilus Annual Calendar ref. 5726. The annual calendar complication, which was first developed by Patek Philippe in the 1990s, allows a watch to display the correct calendar indications by automatically accounting for 30 or 31 days. As its name suggests, an annual calendar watch will only need one manual adjustment a year—on March 1st.

With a slightly larger 40.5mm case, the Nautilus ref. 5726 is exclusively available in stainless steel but it does come with the option of a bracelet or strap. The Nautilus 5726/1A-014 is paired with a steel integrated bracelet and blue dial while the Nautilus 5726A-001 has a black leather strap and gray dial. On those dials sit a pair of windows under 12 o’clock for the day and month, another window at 6 o’clock for the date, and a moonphase display encircled by a 24-hour indicator. The ref. 5726 combines the famed Nautilus silhouette with the renowned Patek annual calendar complication, making it an enticing and popular proposition indeed.

The Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740 is one of the newest models to join the lineup, introduced in 2018. It is also the first Grand Complication of the Nautilus collection and it is powered by an ultra-thin movement. Unlike an annual calendar, the perpetual calendar complication does not require any manual adjustment since it will continue to keep the correct time and date by not only accounting for how many days there are in every month but also leap years.

Fashioned entirely in 18k white gold from its 40mm case to its integrated bracelet, the Nautilus ref. 5740 houses a vibrant blue sunburst dial. The dial is home to date, day, month, leap year and 24-hour indications, all beautifully organized across a trio of subdials. For fans of high-complication timepieces and sporty watches, the Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740 offers the best of both worlds.

From its days as an anomaly in Patek’s catalog to its current status as the most desirable model from the illustrious Swiss watchmaker, the Nautilus is the undisputed leader in ultra-luxe sports watches.

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