A few years ago, Girard Perregaux revived an iconic wristwatch to mark a special anniversary – the Laureato. The original was first released in 1975 and boasted a very unique style, with an octagonal bezel and an integrated bracelet, paired with a relatively slim profile. The model launched during an important time for watchmaking. It was the golden era of the iconic steel sports watch.

Released at the same time as the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak – the Laureato watch was a horological icon. Interestingly, it came before some of these popular collectables but was not the work of Gerald Genta. Its unique design was conceived by a Milan architect named Adolfo Natalini, boasting domes and facades that were achieved through mathematical processes. A thin octagonal bezel sat on a rounded base with horizontal links on a bracelet that integrated into the design seamlessly. The steel sports watch was named after the 1967 film The Graduate, or ‘Il Laureato’ in Italian.

The 1970s was an important era for watchmaking for other reasons too. It also marked the birth of the quartz-powered movement, and thus the quartz crisis which crushed other mechanical watch manufacturers who, before this point, were thriving in Switzerland. To overcome these obstacles, Girard Perregaux faced and survived the devastating effects of the quartz crisis by manufacturing its first quartz movement. The choice to do so would save it from an otherwise catastrophic demise. Girard Perregaux’s Swiss chronometer-certified quartz movement was fitted into the heart of the steel sports watch and named the Laureato. It was also two-toned, offering an unusual luxurious aesthetic for the popular sports watch design. The three-handed timepiece was cutting edge in terms of style and technology at its time of release.

Some of the earliest Girard Perregaux Laureato watches were fitted with features that make the luxury sports watch so popular today. There have, however, been numerous iterations released over the years, including some of the newer models released as part of the younger generation a few years ago. Popular models today still include the 1980s Equation Soleil version of the Laureato watch, whilst more recent models include the likes of the Evo 3, which marked a chapter of in-house mechanical manufacture for Girard Perregaux and its popular Laureato range.

The popular luxury sports watch disappeared for a few years but made a comeback in 2016 – just in time to celebrate the company’s 255th anniversary. It is now a fully-fledged collection of delights that includes tourbillons and chronographs as well as simpler three-handed date models. In addition to this, the Laureato watch collection also comprises perpetual calendars and world time display models – the manufacturer playing around with different dial layouts, sizes, display colours and materials such as gold, titanium, ceramic, carbon and sapphire. There are several reasons why the Girard Perregaux watch collection is still so popular today. The range offers a mix of quartz-operated movements and mechanically-powered sports watches. Several complications and materials add diversity to the series, as does a choice between men and women’s watches. The desirable octagonal-shaped bezel on a circular base with an integrated bracelet injects a retro-inspired aesthetic to the wrist, making this a particularly versatile range to enjoy by the modern steel sports watch collecting male or female. 

The Laureato Equation Soleil watches like the ref: 4266-4, developed in 1980, are extremely rare versions of the Laureato but extremely expensive ones too. Due to its rarity, it is highly sought after amongst the pre-owned market and features an elegant design occupying a double moon phase display. The 4266-4 watch, for example, features a stainless steel integrated bracelet with luxurious yellow gold inlays along with a deployment clasp to offer added security against the wrist. An advanced chronometer-grade quartz movement named the Cal. GP1 737-705 is displayed through a transparent caseback - an incredibly rare feature of a quartz-powered wristwatch. The dial of the Laureato Equation Soleil watch features a double moon phase display which shows the current moon phase for the northern and southern hemispheres simultaneously. Due to its unusual complication, some Laureato Equation Soleil watches, including those featuring twelve zodiac signs, are highly desirable amongst Girard Perregaux watch enthusiasts.

Girard-Perregaux Laureato Evo 3 watches offer a really good three-dimensional dial design for their price point. They visually stand out. Take, for example, the Sport Classique Laureato Evo 3 Large Date watch, which boasts an eye-catching repeated square pattern across its display, along with a grand date feature underneath the 12 o’clock location and luminous-coated central hands and baton hour markers for effective timekeeping in the dark. Steel and red tones make up a power reserve indicator located between the 3 and 5 o’clock locations. In addition to this, there is a moon phase display positioned opposite, surrounded by a small second scale and located between 6 and 9 o’clock. The 44mm model boasts the recognisable octagonal bezel and is powered by an in-house manufactured movement. The Laureato Evo 3 is also available in a chronograph version. Whether chronograph or moon phase, however, the watches have a heftier and bulkier feel compared to quartz-powered Laureato watches and mark the start of Girard Perregaux’s manufacture at the start of the new Millennium.

The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm is a popular model from the brand’s current collection because it revives a classic 1970s look with its assertive sporty lines and 42mm solid stainless steel case. Powered by a reliable in-house mechanical movement, the watch features a blue Clous de Paris-patterned dial with a legible date window at 3 o’clock, luminous central hour and minute hands, and a matching baton-style hour track with luminous treatment. The simple time and date watch is 100-meter water-resistant and features a triple folding buckle to secure the integrated bracelet to the wrist. The watch is a classic all-rounder that celebrates all the favourite features of the original Laureato watch, whilst offering the iconic look of the Royal Oak or Nautilus watch at a fraction of the price.

Executed with a stunning rose gold case, the Tourbillon version of the Laureato celebrates the transparency of the brand as an expert manufacturer of mechanical movements. The stunning Calibre GP09520-0001 is put on show, not only through a sapphire-backed case but also through the dial side. The 262 components, including the mainplate, bridges and the oscillating weight of the automatic winding system, have all been painstakingly openworked in this direct descendant of the original model launched in 1975. The graphically designed mechanical self-winding movement is held inside a 30-meter water-resistant case topped with a sapphire crystal glass front and wraps around the wrist with an integrated bracelet in the same gold material. This is a watch that will appeal to those who like their wristwatches to bridge the gap between technical and luxurious.

One particularly popular Laureato chronograph watch is the current 42mm rose gold iteration with a deep blue dial, which echoes the look and feel of a popular original that goes by the ref:81040-52-432-BB4A. The satin-brushed effect along the case and bracelet of the rose gold watch enables the wearer to enjoy the technical appeal of the sporty chronograph complication without it losing any of its original charm and character. This particular model is powered by the Calibre GP03300, which parades “Côtes de Genève”, chamfering and straight graining decoration to its surfaces whilst providing a useful 46-hour power reserve. On the deep blue dial of this popular Laureato watch, the chronograph counters are laid out in the familiar 3-6-9 layout. The 3 o’clock counter offers a 12-hour function, the 6 o’clock counter - a small seconds function, and the 9 o’clock counter offers a 30-minute function. These features are accompanied by a central chronograph second hand controlled by push-pieces at 2 and 4 o’clock, together with a date window at 4:30.

The Absolute World Wide Time Control watch from Girard Perregaux’s Laureato collection is a popular watch for avid travellers and globe trotters. Its case is crafted from a lightweight black PVD-coated titanium and measures a confident 44mm diameter. A fully integrated black rubber strap completes the stealth-like look of this popular Laureato watch, enhanced all the more by a stunning deep blue dial with luminous hands that are propelled around the display via the GP03300 Calibre. The avant-garde movement is encased within a 300-meter water-resistant case and protected behind a Laureato Absolute logo-engraved caseback bolted down by six screws. With a masterfully crafted world time function, the wearer can flit between time zones, enjoy the timepiece for business, or pair it with sophisticated attire by night thanks to its ergonomic and resolutely modern feel.

Whether the quartz-powered vintage Laureato Equation Soleil watch or a modern and sleek black-coated world time version – Laureato watches, with their unmissable luxury sports watch feel, will always be loved by Girard Perregaux watch collectors. They not only carry the iconic feel of the 70s sports watch craze but provide wearers with a solid, reliable and legible wristwatch for wearing day-in, day-out.